Puppy Development
Home Pug Page

About Pugs

Pug Care Tips

Pug Development and Health

Pug Food

Up-Comming Litters and Events

Stud  Service

Parents To Be And Past Litters Photo Page

Pug Gala 2009

Pug N Brew 2009

Pug O Ween

Co Ownership

See A Copy Of Our Puppy Health Contract

Contact Us


Puppy Development

In order to understand why your puppy doesn’t listen to you at times, you need to understand each stage of development a puppy goes through as it matures. Let’s take a look at the different stages, but before we do, keep in mind that these stages are generalizations each dog will progress at its own pace.

Stage 1: The Transitional Stage2-3 Weeks The Transitional stage generally lasts from age two to three weeks, and it’s during this time that your puppy’s eyes will open, and he’ll slowly start to respond to light and movement and sounds around him. He’ll become a little more mobile during this period, trying to get his feet underneath him and crawling around in the box (or wherever home is.) He’ll start to recognize mom and his littermates, and any objects you might place in the box.

Stage 2: The Almost Ready To Meet The World Stage3-4 Weeks The Almost ready to meet the world stage lasts from 3 to about 4 weeks, and your puppy undergoes rapid sensory development during this time. Fully alert to his environment, he’ll begin to recognize you and other family members. It’s best to avoid loud noises or sudden changes during this period negative events can have a serious impact on his personality and development right now. Puppies learn how to be a dog during this time, so it’s essential that they stay with mom and littermates.

Stage 3: The Overlap Stage4-7 Weeks From 3-4 weeks your puppy begins the most critical social development period of his life he learns social interaction with his littermates, learns how to play and learns bite inhibition.

He’ll also learn discipline at this point Mom will begin weaning the pups around this time, and will start teaching them basic manners, including accepting her as the leader of the pack. You can begin to introduce food to the pups starting around the 4th week transition gradually as Mom weans them.

Continue handling the pups daily, but don’t separate them from either Mom or litter mates for more than about 10 minutes per day. Puppies that are removed from the nest too early frequently are nervous, more prone to barking and biting and have a more difficult time with socialization and training. Puppies need to be left with Mom and siblings until at least 7 weeks of age - and preferably a little longer - for optimum social development.

Experts say that the best time in a puppy’s life to learn social skills is between 3 and 16 weeks of age that’s the window of opportunity you have to make sure your puppy grows up to be a well-adjusted dog. It’s extremely important to leave your puppy with Mom and his littermates during as much of this period as possible. Don’t discipline for play fighting, housebreaking mistakes or mouthing that’s all normal behavior for a puppy at this stage.

Stage 4: The “I’m Afraid of Everything” Stage8 Weeks to 3 Months The “I’m Afraid of Everything” Stage lasts from about 8 weeks to 3 months, and is characterized by rapid learning as well as a “fearful period” that usually pops up at around 8 to 10 weeks. Not all dogs experience this, but most do, and they’ll appear terrified over things that they took in stride before. This is not a good time to engage in harsh discipline (not that you ever should anyway!), loud voices or traumatic events. At this time your puppy’s bladder and bowels are starting to come under much better control, and he’s capable of sleeping through the night. (At last, you can get some rest!) You can begin teaching simple commands like: come, sit, stay, down, etc. Leash training can begin. It’s important not to isolate your puppy from human contact at this time, as he’ll continue to learn behaviors and manners that will affect him in later years.

Stage 5: The Juvenile Stage3 Months to 4 Months The Juvenile stage typically lasts from 3 to 4 months of age, and it’s during this time your puppy is most like a toddler. He’ll be a little more independent - he might start ignoring the commands he’s only recently learned just like a child does when they’re trying to exert their new-found independence. As in “I don’t have to listen to you!” Firm and gentle reinforcement of commands and training is what’s required here.

He might start biting you play biting or even a real attempt to challenge your authority. A sharp “No!” or “No bite!” command, followed by several minutes of ignoring him, should take care of this problem.

Continue to play with him and handle him on a daily basis, but don’t play games like tug of war or wrestling with him. He may perceive tug of war as a game of dominance especially if he wins. And wrestling is another game that can rapidly get out of hand. As your puppy’s strength grows, he’s going to want to play-fight to see who’s stronger even if you win, the message your puppy receives is that it’s ok to fight with you. And that’s not ok!

Stage 6: The Brat Stage 4-6 Months The Brat Stage starts at about 4 months and runs until about 6 months, and it’s during this time your puppy will demonstrate even more independence and willfulness. You may see a decline in his urge to please you expect to see more “testing the limits” type of behaviors. He’ll be going through a teething cycle during this time, and will also be looking for things to chew on to relieve the pain and pressure. Frozen doggie bones can help sooth him during this period.

He may try to assert his new “dominance” over other family members, especially children. Continue his training in obedience and basic commands, but make sure to never let him off his leash during this time unless you’re in a confined area. Many times pups at this age will ignore commands to return or come to their owners, which can be a dangerous, even fatal, breakdown in your dog’s response to you. If you turn him loose in a public place, and he bolts, the chances of injury or even death can result so don’t take the chance.

He’ll now begin to go through the hormonal changes brought about by his growing sexual maturity, and you may see signs of rebelliousness. (Think adolescent teen-age boy!) If you haven’t already, you should have him neutered during this time. (Or spayed if you have a female.)

Stage 7: The Young Adult Stage6-18 Months The Young Adulthood stage lasts from 6 months to about 18 months, and is usually a great time in your dog’s life - he’s young, he’s exuberant, he’s full of beans and yet he’s learning all the things he needs to become a full-fledged adult dog.

Be realistic in your expectations of your dog at this time just because he’s approaching his full growth and may look like an adult, he’s not as seasoned and experienced as you might expect. Gradually increase the scope of activities for your dog, as well as the training. You can start more advanced training during this period, such as herding or agility training, if that’s something both of you are interested in. Otherwise, extend his activities to include more people and other animals allow him to interact with non-threatening or non-aggressive dogs.

Congratulations! You’ve raised your puppy through the 7 stages of childhood, er, I mean puppyhood, and now you have a grown-up, adult dog! Almost feels like you’ve raised a kid, doesn’t it?

 

 

Pug Vaccines

 

 

The goal of the veterinary community is to prevent disease and suffering in out pets, in certain cases they can do more harm than good. There are several other problems that can rarely occur with pugs when vacinations are given such as acute anaphylaxis with hives and swelling, autoimmune reactions and even death. The Canine Health Foundation is in the middle of a several year study on canine vaccines. Even when their research is done, there may still be questions on the right way to vaccinate.

So what is a concerned Pug owner to do? Most authorities basically agree on puppy vaccines. Puppies can start around 8 weeks of age with a distemper, hepatitis, parainfluenza and parvo vaccine (DHPP). No leptospirosis in puppies under 9 weeks. My own personal experience is that Pugs don't tolerate lepto vaccine real well anyway, so I don't use it in my dogs at all. Repeat the vaccine 4 and 8 weeks later, so you end up around 16 weeks of age. If you use the high titer Parvo vaccines, your puppy should have immunity by this point. We give the injectiable Bordetella vaccine and recomend it to other pug owners as well. Rabies vaccines vary by state but many are licensed for 3 years and up. Since you don't want to overstress the system, you should usually wait until 5 months to give the first rabies vaccine. It is good for 1 year. There are many other vaccines on the market and more in the works, but the key is to customize the vaccine protocol to your dog and your area. The veterinary associations call this establishing "core" vaccines. Not all vaccines need to be given to every dog. When your puppy passes 1 year of age, most agree you should booster the DHPP,rabies, and Bordetella if your dog is at risk. Should you have a blood test, called a titer, taken that measures the potential immunity in the blood? The test is currently expensive but a new in-clinic test is coming out. Is it accurate? Do high titers mean your dog will not get sick if exposed to a disease? We don't know. It is clear that if we all stop vaccinating all dogs, some very bad diseases will increase in frequency. You must discuss your unique case with your vet. Remember that the majority of dogs do not have adverse reactions when vaccinated. You must weigh the potential risks of vaccinating with your location and your dog's risk of exposure to disease. You should monitor your dog carefully following vaccinations and report any problems to your vet. If your dog has a mild reaction, consider premedicating him with antihistamines and/or steroids before the next vaccine and consider separating the vaccines by several weeks.

 

Veterinary Clinic’s we recommend that are experienced in the Pug Breed

 

Norton’s Ark

13241 NE 109th Pl
Redmond, WA 98052 - 2407
(425) 822-7847

 

Northgate Veterinary Clinic

206-363-8421

 

North East Veterinary Clinic

206-523-1900

 

Olympia Veterinary Hospital

360-352-7561

 

Petcare Hospital

425-337-5300

 

Animal Skin and Allergy Clinic

425-742-0342

 

Dog Eye Care

Animal Eye Clinic

206-524-8822

 

Dog Training/Puppy Kindergarten

 

Family Dog Training Center

425-291-9634

 

 

Paws-abilities Dog Training

425-277-3794

 

Riverdog

425-427-5958

 

 

Eye Links

 

http://rds.yahoo.com/_ylt=AiNAAh5.dSBqaTy0z_PBpQxXNyoA;_ylu=X3oDMTE2NG90ZXRnBGNvbG8DdwRsA1dTMQRwb3MDMgRzZWMDc3IEdnRpZANpMDIxXzQ3/SIG=11hfdvhbl/EXP=1137005947/**http%3a//www.vmdb.org/cerf.html

 

http://www.animal-eye-specialists.com/blind_pet.htm

 

http://www.blinddogs.com/sitemap.htm

 

Free Dog Training Web Help Site and Info

 

http://www.dog-training-information.info/

 

http://www.canismajor.com/dog/aggres1.html

 

http://thedoggydispatch.com/

 

Kennel List

Paradise Pet Lodge

http://www.paradisepetlodge.com/

10324 Paradise Lake Rd
Woodinville, WA
(425) 483-3647

Canine College

20515 NE Union Hill Rd
Redmond, WA 98053 - 7549
(425) 868-5556

Camp 4 K 9

http://www.camp4k9.com


12711 Roosevelt Rd, Snohomish, WA 98290


Cascade Kennels (425)483-9333

http://www.cascadekennels.com/

20005 178th Avenue NE
Woodinville, WA 98077

 

Pug Books and Magazines:

Pug Talk Magazine

Pug Press

Clara, The Early Years, by Margo Kaufman

Pug Shots, by Jim Dratfield

Pugs in Public, by Kendall Farr

Pug Dog Encephalitis Study Information

We know that PDE “Pug Dog Encephalitis” is a horrible thing to have happen to any one! If you have a pug that may have or has passed on from PDE we urge you to contact Dr. Bush at pugology@lamar.colostate.edu 

Through the Colorado State Veterinary Diagnostic Laboratory, Dr. Dan Gould and Dr. Jamie Bush are implementing a study to assess prevalence, sex preference, and environmental risk factors. Brains from any pugs that die or are euthanized for any reason, including suspected PDE, are requested. In addition to brains, please submit a medical history (including vaccination and deworming history), physical exam findings, and any diagnostic results. Veterinarians may submit the whole brain preserved in 10% buffered formalin, or the chilled head or whole body can be submitted for brain removal by Dr. Bush. Freezing should be avoided. Histopathology will be performed to determine a diagnosis of PDE, and histological lesions will be characterized. Questionnaires will be sent to the guardians of all pugs to evaluate potential environmental risk factors. Shipping costs will be the responsibility of the pug’s guardian. A pathology report of the brain histopathology will be sent to the referring veterinarian and pug guardian.

 

 

 

Reverse Sneezing



 
 
 

 

Pug's can have a condition we call a 'reverse sneeze.' It gets its name because the pug rapidly pulls air into his nose, whereas in a 'regular' sneeze, the air is rapidly pushed out through the nose. If you witness a pug having a reverse sneeze it may seem alarming, but it is not a harmful condition, and there are no ill effects. The dog is completely normal before and after the episode. During a reverse sneeze, the pug will make rapid and long inspirations, stand still, and extend his head. A loud snorting sound is produced, which may make you think the pug has something caught in his nose.
Reverse sneezing is relatively common in brachycephalic breeds. Some pugs may never have that experience, others can a couple of times a week. Best thing to do is nothing. It should stop in a minute or so and they're fine.